Η ΠΕΡΙΦΕΡΕΙΑΚΗ ΚΕΡΚΥΡΑ – CORFU NORTH
So we thought we would start this blog with a Greek lesson, Η περιπέτεια της Κέρκυρας is Greek for The Corfu Adventure.
Corfu (Kerkyra) is the most northerly of the chain of Ionian islands in the Ionian sea – also known as the Heptanese – 7 islands but in addition to the 7 main islands there are many smaller islands too.
The islands were settled by Greeks as early as the 9th century BC but various rulers have made their mark in Greece and her islands including Macedonia, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Turks, French and of course the British.
Corfu is not a small island as Greek islands go, it comprises of 585 km2 and measures 64km top to bottom, 32 km across at its widest point with a coastline of 210 km. So, you are going to need a car if you are to get around and make the most of your stay. It is also known as the ‘Emerald Isle’ due to the dense vegetation and more than 2 million olive trees. You will kick yourself if you don’t go on an Olive Oil tasting tour whilst you are there, it’s a must!
There really is so much to do and see that we are going to split this blog into 2, north and south.
This is north blog, but as you have arrived directly into Corfu Town it makes sense to make that your starting point and the start of the south blog will be Aqualand.
You will be spoilt for places to stay and there is accommodation to suit all budgets. Corfu Town is the only Kastropolis in Greece – a city surrounded by the walls of its castles. Corfu was the first Greek island to experience tourists, the first commercial bank was opened in Corfu town in 1840 – now the Banknote Museum. The old City of Corfu is a UNESCO Heritage monument and displays the Venetian, English and French influences.
The Liston (designed during the Napoleonic occupation), the main hub of the old town, is a great place to go for a coffee and to people watch. It’s set in the main square by the Old Fortress, the Palace of St Michael and St George. Cricket used to be played there for many years on Sundays, a tradition brought over by the British – it was a tradition to watch the cricket with a glass of Pimm’s, but sadly the pitch is now a car park. (when we first visited Corfu, we watched the cricket sipping the odd glass of Pimm’s!) (be rude not to)
The British Prince Philip was born at the Palace of Mon Repos and the King of Greece used to spend his summer holidays there.
The patron saint of Corfu is St Spyridon and it was custom to call your first born son ‘Spiros’. The church of St Spyridon is in town and there are 4 annual processions/ celebrations; Palm Sunday, Holy Saturday, 11th August and the first Sunday in November and these are incredible to witness. http://orthochristian.com/123032.html
The town is steeped in history and has so many buildings to visit, streets to walk, food to try and music and dancing in true Greek style. To really get a feel for the town and learn more history you could jump on a City Sightseeing bus tour. Then after you know where you want to go, you can walk around at your leisure – the town is a maze of narrow streets where you can find secret gardens, cafes, chapels and really good food!. At night Corfu town comes to life, an amazing vibe, music and food. Paner & Souvlaki is a great budget restaurant with local food, rumour has it MIkro Café serves the best coffee (you decide). Antonis Toursas Juice Bar – pick you fruit, they will juice it! Fishalida … name says it all. Firi Firi Beer house … again name says it all. But if you are looking for something special the Venetian Well restaurant is hard to beat. You will love Corfu town, might need a few days and nights just to do it justice!
Just on the outskirts of town is the port where all the ferries leave to head to Igoumenitsa, Paxos, Patra and Brindisi (Italy).
So, we are going to head up the east coast across the top and down the west coast. We are going to avoid the most touristy resorts and areas and try and find the off the beaten track areas.
Heading to Barbati Beach first, but, if you fancied doing some water skiing, Dassia is well known for the skiing and it’s enroute so you could stop off there for some skiing. We will be passing many other well-known resorts mostly because there are too many to mention, but check out google and you will see them all. Barbati has a gorgeous white sandy beach and is just a bit away from the bustle of Gouvia, Ipsos etc. And just a short walk up the road you will reach Nisaki, this is a quaint little village where you can rent a boat, do some water sports, sunbathe or have lunch right on the water in Mitsos Taverna.
A few kms up the road you will arrive in Kalami which was made famous by Gerald Durrell and James Bond! Gerald Durrell’s family home still stands on the edge of the village. His book, My Family and Other Animals was written about his childhood living in Corfu. And the James Bond movie ‘For Your Eyes Only’ had a number of scenes filmed in Corfu and the scene where Gonzales murdered the Havelocks was filmed in the bay of Kalami. There are also Durrell walking trails if you want to stretch your legs and see some of the local area. We are going to write a blog taking you around Corfu visiting all the 007 film locations, so watch out for it.
Further up you will see signs for Agios Stefanos. San Stefanos. Here there is a lovely harbour where you can either rent a boat or go out on a boat tour. And, more wonderful seafood restaurants than you can point a stick at!
After Ag Nic, we are heading further north to Kassiopi, but there is a gorgeous little bay called Akoli Beach, also worth a visit if you have time. Along with Avlaki beach, another reasonably quiet bay, with glorious swimming and sailing if you want to hire a dingy and try your hand. Just don’t go to far or you might end up in Albania!
Arrived in Kassiopi! Park your car and walk – you can drive around the harbour then up around the headland, but it is such a good walk it would be a shame to drive. Not long ago this was a little fishing village and now there is an abundance of cocktail bars, coffee shops and tavernas and grills along the harbour front and boats for hire and boat tours. Often flotillas of yachts moor up over night to stock up and that is pretty impressive (tourists on sailing holidays). It’s not a big village but definitely worth a visit and the harbour at night is vibrant.
On the move again. If you fancy a nice long beach walk, head to Amiros Beach. From there you can walk all the way to Roda beach. Corfu has some stunning beaches and bays but this is a particularly long beach and a wonderful walk. It’s about 1.5hr walk so you may want to have breakfast or lunch when you get there!
Off to Sidari. This is quite a busy resort, but it is still worth a visit being so north of the island and plenty of watersport if you want to have some water fun! From Sidari head north west to Canal d’Amour Beach. This is an area with various coves and bays with crystal clear water and not many people! And you must go for a swim in the Canal d’Amour Tunnel – often used for promotional photos.
If you head off west towards Akra Drastis, you will find various viewpoints and cliffs where you will get stunning photos of the coast. You can rent boats there but if you are inexperienced probably best to rent where there are sheltered bays.
Driving south east head towards Agios Stefanos (yes another ag nic, you will find a few of them). Here there are some other options for you. You could get the ferry to Mathraki and from there on to Othonio. Two much smaller Greek islands in the Ionian chain. You can also go on another long walk up the beach to Katevasidi Beach with the water on one side and orchards on the other. Driving south a km or 2 (can’t walk it unfortunately) you come to the old and new harbours and Cape Kefali. Both stunning locations for beautiful photographs.
Continue heading south towards Porto Tomoni Viewpoint and beach (about 8 kms), then Pirate Beach. We are not entirely sure how far you can drive along this road now. But once it becomes unsealed park up the car and walk the rest of the way. You won’t regret it. With all the rocky out crops etc, it has some stunning views with turquoise clear waters and views back to Agios Georgios Beach … well worth the effort – perhaps even take a picnic lunch with you? How decadent!
Get back in the car and head south to Kastelli Beach, Angelokastro (about 15 kms but a very windy road ). You will need to park up and walk the final bit, but you won’t regret it. The private beach is just stunning and the views are to die for. Also on the way back to the car, take the path to Angelokastro, a hilltop castle and church, Aghia Kyriaki. And where you park the car there is a little café so handy if you need a refreshment or to use the loo! Stunning views so you may decide you need a drink even if you don’t.
Now we are off to Paleokastritsa, it’s about 11 kms, of more windy switchback road, but the views and scenery make it all worthwhile. It is a busy tourist destination, but you really do have to visit whilst you are in Corfu. There you will find a harbour, white beaches, crystal blue water, food and drink in abundance, the Blue Eye Cave, Agios Gerogios Church and the Monastery of Paleokastritsa. More beaches than you can point a stick at – St Spiridon Bay, Alipa Beach, Platakia Beach, Spiros Beach, Agia Triada Beach and Akrotiri Beach.. and each and every one of them beautiful, take your pick! There is also boat rental, scuba diving and an Aquarium.
If you need a stiff drink after all that F1 driving just 6 kms outside of Paleo you will find the Goulis Winery. And if you are making that your last stop for the day (probably should if you are going to ‘partake’ there are 3 or 4 options for accommodation close to the winery – how handy is that!
This is the end of the blog of the North of the island check out the second half of the south of the island.
Kαλό ταξίδι
