KEFALONIA
The largest of the 7 Ionian Islands
Kefalonia or Cephalonia (Κεφαλονιά), is the largest of the Ionian Islands and the 6th largest island in Greece. In 1864, Cephalonia, together with all the other Ionian Islands, became a full member of the Greek state.
A series of four earthquakes hit the island in August 1953, and caused major destruction, with virtually every house on the island destroyed. The epicentre was directly south of the southern tip of Cephalonia and caused the entire island to be raised 60 cm (24 in) higher, where it remains, with evidence in water marks on rocks around the coastline.
The total land area is 786km2 with a population of approx. 35,800. The town of Argostoli is the capital and has one-third of the island’s inhabitants. Lixouri is the second major settlement, and the two towns together account for almost two-thirds of the population. You can fly to Kefalonia or get a ferry from Zakynthos, Lefkada and/or Italy via Sami (summer months)
We decided to put a route together of suggested places we recommend you visit and spend some time. We are heading clockwise north to south, but of course you might wish to go south to north. So, without further ado below is a tour of the island:
ARGOSTOLI is a perfect base if you prefer to stay in one place and do day tours to explore this wonderful island – strategically located almost in the centre of the island. There are also many beautiful beaches around the city that you could walk to. You have the option of staying right in town or in Lassi, near all the beaches where it’s a tad quieter – or staying somewhere different every night or base yourself out of Sami or …. The world (or Kefalonia) really is your oyster!
Argostoli (and Kefalonia as a region) offers a rich cultural and historic heritage with several museums, monuments and historic squares. Argostoli is a modern city and is easy to navigate due to being laid out in a grid pattern. It has a very busy fishing harbour and if you get there early when the fishermen are tossing their unwanted catch into the water you will probably get to see the famous Caretta-Caretta turtles who visit for their snacks.
The famous sea bridge, De Bosset (Pedestrian) Bridge, that spans Koutavos Lagoon is, at 690 mtrs long, is the largest stone bridge in the world. It’s worth mentioning that there is a unique geological phenomenon called Katavothres, this is like an underground system through which the sea water travels from Argostoli all the way to the Melissani Cave in Sami. There are of course plenty of shops and restaurants to visit as in any town or city, including at the Platia Vallianou, the village square where you will be spoilt for choice and will probably spend most of your time reading menus and trying to decide!
Campana square, named after the bell tower there – go to the top of the tower for an amazing panoramic view of Argostoli. And let’s not forget the harbour, true to any Greek harbour promenade there are so many bars and tavernas to choose from but one that does stand out is the Kiani Akti located on a wooden dock protruding out over the water. In high season there are 2 tourist trains offering tours of the city. Day trips include wineries, historical sites, a boat tour or ferries to a number of other islands including Ithaca, Zakynthos, Lefkada, Killini, Patras and the mainland.
From the harbour you can catch the ferry over to LIXOURI, it’s only 20mins and absolutely worth the trip. You could of course drive there on your way north but easier to just jump on the ferry. Lixouri is the second largest town in Kefalonia and it is the home to some of the most beautiful beaches; Mega Lakos, Xi and Lepeda and of course is also known for trendy bars and restaurants and often hosts festivals.
MYRTOS BEACH is only about a 40min drive from Argostoli and is hands-down the prettiest beach on Kefalonia and a top contender for the prettiest beach in all of Greece. The beach is unique as you view it from above, it has mesmerizing bright blue and aqua swirls that change shape and colours throughout the day. The beach is surrounded by towering dramatic cliffs and lined with pristine white pebbles on the bottom, creating a stark contrast between the turquoise waters.
FromMyrtos the drive to ASSOS is only approx. 20 mins.
Assos is an adorable little colourful fishing village connected by a narrow track, with seas on either side, leading to a lush mountain range that boasts a magnificent Venetian Fortress that looks back at the village. Assos village is said to have only 100 residents.
As with most of the awesome places in Kefalonia, access to the village is by a narrow road with hairpin turns lined by cypress trees offering breath taking views during the drive down Assos is such a relaxing little place to spend the afternoon. There are little coves to swim with crystal clear calm waters and tavernas on the water with views of the bay and the Fortress across the way.
The Assos Fortress was built by the Venetians in the 16th century to protect the city from pirate raids and the Turks. The fortress measures 44,000 square feet, one of the largest in all of Greece. The walkway up to the fortress is lined with Cyprus and pine trees and has great views as you climb to the top. It will take about 30-40 minutes to get the top – check the opening times before you start your climb!
Leaving Assos we drive approx. 30 mins north to FISKARDO – are you beginning to see why it is actually quite doable to base yourself in Argostoli and take day trips out and about?
The historic harbour village of Fiskardo is one of the most beautiful – and popular – parts of Kefalonia. Situated at the northern tip of the island, it’s undeniably one of the highlights of any trip to this unique Greek island. That said there are a few highlights, Kefalonia just keeps giving!
Fiskardo is the only part of Kefalonia that retains much of its original Venetian architecture, making it a really special place on the island to visit. Its winding waterfront is lined with luxury boats, upmarket seafood restaurants, and is home to some of the priciest real estate in all of Greece thanks to the patronage of the rich and the famous who drop by on the mega yachts.
A quiet little Greek fishing village it is not, but it is very cosmopolitan, it’s busy, and it’s posh, very posh. BUT, it’s a fantastic place; it’s laid back, very beautiful and full of life. It’s prime people-watching territory and the best thing to do is while away the hours at cafes and restaurants and watch the world go by. There are also some bijou little boutiques for shopaholics, and plenty of gelato 😊
And whilst you are in this area there is no shortage of glorious beaches to visit, to mention but a few: Zavalata, Foki, Emblisi, Kimilia, Dafnoudi, Alaties, Aghia Jerusalem and Agia Kyriaki – don’t forget your sun block! Go for a swim, snorkel, dive and/or kayak, but if walking is what you fancy doing, there are a range of walking trails around Fiskardo which make ideal day hikes.
Heading south from Fiskardo we reach the small, picturesque fishing village of AGIA EFFIMIA. It’s approx. 40 mins to drive if you don’t stop on the way for photo opportunities.
Once upon a time Agia Efimia was one of the island’s more important centres of trade with stately homes and mansions. Agia Effimia is now only a small village but it is close to several other points of interest, being Karavomylos, Melissani Lake and the Drogorati Caves which makes it an ideal central location to stay if you wanted a base for day tours, it offers the same access to north and south as Argostoli does but it’s a quiet village vs a bustling capital.
KARAVOMYLOS is the next town along from Agia Efimia. It also sits in Sami Bay. This small town has so much to offer. Karavomylos village is home to some of Kefalonia’s most spectacular tourist attractions. Karavomylos lake. This lake is so beautiful and where the water from Argostoli travel to the other side of the island travel underground and mix with freshwater. You can walk around the lake via a cobbled footpath. It’s a short walk but with pretty spectacular views. It is located next to the sea and has ducks, geese, fish’ lush vegetation. There is a taverna here for refreshments and also a seaside trail lined with eucalyptus trees, that takes you to/from the village of Sami.
Melissani Lake, otherwise known as the ‘Cave of the Nymphs’, it really is every bit as magical as it sounds, the lake was named after archaeologists found several figures of the God Pan and several nymphs. Myth has it that a nymph names Mellisanthi drowned herself in the lake when Panas rejected her love. It is almost a magical experience to be taken out on an old wooden boat and admire the stunning water.
The Drogarti Cave is close by. This was discovered 300 years ago when a big earthquake caused the entrance to collapse and revealed an impressive cave with wondrous formations of stalactites and stalagmites. The caves are approximately 60m deep and are full of stalagmites and stalactites formed over millions of years in limestone, the caves are known to have very good acoustics and on occasion have hosted concerts with up to 500 people attending. It is like being on another planet – the bright orange lights luminate the spectacular formations.
Leaving Drogarti Cave and heading south to KATELIOS is approx. a 50 min drive, so the longest drive from anywhere so far! (or 40mins if you are staying in Argostoli)
Katelios is a gorgeous quaint traditional Greek fishing village, like the ones you just don’t see anymore, a bit of a step back in time to before mass tourism came and changed Greece for ever. Two decades ago there was only a handful of fishermen who had their cottages and huts in the village. Gradually it became much more popular and there has been significant tourist development. Although Katelios remains a quiet and peaceful destination, ideal for nature lovers and those seeking relaxation. From Katelios you can enjoy stunning views of the Ionian Sea until the island of Zakynthos and the western coast of the Peloponnese.
The main beach of Katelios is called Agia Varvara and it’s a long beach covered with both sand and pebbles. There are a few sun loungers, but because it isn’t as commercialised as most of the beaches in the area, we suggest that you take necessary supplies with you.
The famous turtle beach near Ratzakli is just 2 km away from Katelios and you could reach it on foot as well. The locals have founded an NGO called “The Katelios Group” for the protection of the loggerhead turtles that lay their eggs on these beaches. If you want to learn more about the turtles, contact the volunteers of the organisation who will be more than happy to tell you about the turtles and their activities to protect them.
Heading north now to LASSI which is approx. a 40 mins drive from Katelios and a mere 3km from Argostoli. Lassi is a small and charming village and is justa short walk and even shorter drive from Argostoli. Lassi caters more for families and those wanting a quieter holiday whilst Argostoli up the road caters for people who want the buzz of a busy city, with drinking and dancing into the small hours. In Lassi, you can simply enjoy a meal as the sun goes down and then take up a seat somewhere and enjoy a carafe of local wine, a pint or two of Mythos or perhaps a couple of cocktails and just generally chill.
The 3 main Argostoli beaches I would recommend are Makris Gialos, Kalamia, and Gradakia:
Makris Gialos beach-this is most popular beach and has sunbeds and umbrellas for hire, as well as water sports and several bars and tavernas. It’s a very busy beach with parking on an incline on an unpaved path so you will need to park before the gravel and walk the last few metres. Kalamia beach-a 30 min walk from the center of Argostoli. It’s a small beach with a little beach bar. It has beautiful rock formations and little arches you can go under. Gradakia beach-a 15 Min walk from Kalamia. Gradakia is the first of many creeks that are in this stretch of coast just behind the town and close to the tourist village of Lassi. Gradakia is also the largest bay with a sea of innumerable shades of blue and rocks on the sides that form natural caves to swim. The sea is usually calm and there is a beach bar for refreshments.
And this brings you back to a full circle where you started, Argostoli. Obviously, there are many other villages and beaches to visit we have just selected those that jumped out at us and thought you would like to experience. We have not talked about the historic ruins or churches you may want to visit, the olive oil presses and the wineries that you will see on your travels and all the amazing photo opportunities you will find along the way – we have to leave something for you to discover 😊
Credits and thanks to:
Crazytravelista.com
Mercedesconstantine.com
Wikipedia
themedeterainiantraveller.com
Kefalonia.ws
Expedia.com
Greektravel.com
Greeka.com
Kefaloniabyanna.com
